CHOOSING YOUR BASIC ATTIRE – KILT OR KILTED SKIRT
So, you’ve joined us at theClanBuchanan, and you need your first kilt (men) or first kilted skirt (women).
So many decisions! What type of kilt, what tartan, what weight, wool vs synthetic, and what length or style should I wear?
Style of kilt
Firstly there’s the most recognised Little Kilt or fèileadh beag which means small or walking kilt, worn by men at games, semi-formal and formal events. The active kilts, mentioned below, are this type of kilt but made in a synthetic tartan fabric. The apron, or flat front, always closes to the right, with a kilt pin near the fringed edge of a man’s kilt. Traditionally the ‘little kilt’ was only worn by men however female members of pipe bands or female highland dancers wear men’s attire as these were traditionally men’s activities.
Some men prefer the Great Kilt or feileadh mòr which means ‘great plaid’, several yards of tartan fabric, worn around the waist and over the shoulder, held in place by a belt and a Penannular brooch. The tartan for a great kilt needs to laid on the floor (requires a large space or may need to be done outdoors!) and folded by hand each time it is worn although there are sneaky ways to retain this preparation without losing the rugged, unstitched ‘Outlander’ look!
A contemporary variation of the Little Kilt is the Utility Kilt – workman’s kilts that are not made of tartan fabric and are generally designed with multiple pockets and box pleated so they do not ‘swing’ like a traditional kilt. Utility Kilts would not be recommended as a representation of traditional Scottish attire if a person is planning to buy a kilt to wear for clan events.
Kilted skirt
There are just as many choices for women. Although a kilted skirt closes to the left, with the kilt pin worn on the left side, there are several decisions to be made.
Knee length and tea length (halfway between knee and ankle) can be worn at any time, and the hostess skirt (long skirt, almost reaching the floor) is usually only worn at formal functions.
The tartan fabric used for women’s kilted skirts is usually a bit lighter weight than the tartan in a man’s kilt.
In some countries the term ‘tea length’ is not used but ‘hostess length’ seems to be universally recognized as a full length skirt. All shorter kilted skirts are just sold by length from waist to hem.
Pleating
And finally, last decision for the men: pleating to the sett or to the line? We’ve probably lost you with this question!
A well-made kilt when viewed from the back should have the pleats lined up so that the entire sett (pattern of the tartan) can be seen. This pleating ‘to the sett’ is the most common style for family tartan kilts. However, in many military and band kilts, the entire sett is not visible, but pleated so that only the prominent vertical line is visible, one after another, and this is called pleating ‘to the line’.
“To the Sett” on the Left vs. “To the Line” on the right
Choice of fabric
A traditional kilt is made from 100% wool, generally in heavy weight (16oz) for men however those in warmer climates may opt for a medium weight (13oz) tartan. Women’s kilted skirts are generally in medium weight tartan though light weight (11oz) is also used and falls beautifully for some outfits such as an Arisaid (female equivalent of the Great Kilt). This traditional tartan is expensive to purchase but if well cared for your kilt will last several life-times and kilts are very often handed down from grandfather to father to son etc. Wool tartan offers the greatest variety of tartans that are registered as authentic with the Scottish Register of Tartans which is not a commercial entity that makes money from the sale of tartan fabric. A well-made, well-fitted wool kilt has a look and feel that is very special and has a ‘swing’ when viewed from behind as the wearer is walking or dancing. Also, a 9 yard kilt made from medium to heavy weight wool will rarely embarrass the wearer by blowing upwards on windy days!
If you’re not ready to invest much money at this time, and are not planning on attending a formal event, the sports kilts, and other active kilts that are made from a polyester blend might be perfect for you. These are still pleated in the style of a traditional Little Kilt though generally with less tartan and should not be confused with a Utility Kilt. Be aware of the difference between polyester blend (poly-viscose) and 100% acrylic tartan which looks and feels like wool but has the tendency to ‘pill’ very quickly and your kilt will soon look really shabby, something we should all try to avoid! Most active kilts can be machine washed (though good manufacturers suggest hand washing to protect the straps and pleats), and are slightly adjustable. However, note that even if the kilt is sold for wearing by a woman, the active kilt’s apron usually closes to the right, as on a man’s kilt. These are mass produced kilts, so you may find only a few tartan options as opposed to those available on a bespoke kilt or kilted skirt, and are usually only available in Modern Buchanan.
They are perfect for those competing in the athletic events such as caber toss, as athletes are required to wear kilts at most games. Active kilts are also perfect for growing children, with not much money is invested. Be prepared to iron your synthetic active kilt more often than a traditional kilt made in 100% wool tartan in order to present yourself neatly!
Choice of Tartan
Clan Buchanan has many tartans from which to choose - click here for a comprehensive list. The most recognizable is the Modern Buchanan, a multi-colored marvel that can be seen from miles away. Many may prefer the weathered tartan, of which there are two, old sett and new sett. Ancient Buchanan tartan is also worn often, and of course, Hunting Buchanan (both Modern and Ancient) is a favorite as well. These are not the only Buchanan tartans, however, so the biggest decision you’ll have to make is which tartan. Different weavers have versions (and different names!) that can vary in the size of the sett, and the colors can vary significantly.
Also, remember that you’re not limited to your clan. If you’ve served in The US Army, Marine Corps, Navy, Coast Guard or Air Force, each branch has their own tartan and other countries also have registered military or service tartans. In addition, there are commemorative tartans, such as the USA’s bicentennial tartan of red, white and blue (very difficult to find now), and the Princess Diana tartan can be found occasionally for the ladies to wear. Most countries and states have their own tartan, too! Your choices are endless!
As a note of caution, we recommend you check the Scottish Register of Tartans if you want to be assured that the tartan you are purchasing is what you’re being told it is by the seller. There is often only a slight difference in the designs/setts of clan tartans and less experienced or unscrupulous dealers will sometimes sell you a similar tartan they have in stock rather than miss a sale.
Having a kilt made: measurements
So, you’ve done your research, you’ve asked your cousins in your area to refer you to a good kiltmaker, you’ve called him or her, and discussed which tartans are available. If the kilt maker is out of your area, and they can’t measure you in person, you will have to send in your measurements. We advise you to ask someone else to measure you, using a good quality cloth measuring tape.
Measuring for a gentleman’s kilt
In order to measure properly, be sure to have on a dress shirt, to account for any ‘blousing’ (bulk from the shirt) and do not pull the measuring tape to tight, or let it sag.
You will need the following measurements:
Waist Measure around your waist. NOTE: this is not where most men wear the waist of their pants, but right around the belly button – that’s how high the kilt sits.
Hips Measure around the widest part of your hips
Length This is the tricky measurement for men. While it used to be fashionable a couple of decades ago for men to wear kilts above the knee cap, that fashion has faded, and today most men wear their kilts at about mid-knee-cap.
The best way to measure the length is as follows:
The gentleman should kneel on the floor, and the person with the tape measure should measure from the belly button, to the floor. Once standing, repeat the measurement to make certain it’s at least to mid-knee cap, but no longer.
Your kiltmaker may also ask for your height, to make certain that the measurements are not unusual or incorrect. Please tell the kiltmaker if you have a distinct physical feature e.g. one hip is higher than the other or because of a spinal condition you lean forward or back and your waist is not horizontal to the floor. This will enable the kiltmaker to tailor your kilt to you individual needs.
Measuring for a lady’s kilted skirt
In order to be measured properly, be sure to have on a dress blouse, to account for any ‘blousing’ (bulk from the blouse) and do not pull the measuring tape to tight, or let it sag.
Waist Measure the smallest part of your waist, around the tummy at the level of the belly button
Hips Measure round the widest part of your hips
Length As mentioned above, once you’ve decided how long you want your kilt, you can measure from the belly button to, for example, just below the knee, or mid-calf for tea-length, or to the just above your foot for hostess skirt.
We hope these small tips will help you in the future, and we plan to cover more topics, some extensively, in the future.
Have a question or wonder about a particular piece of clothing?
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